Summer is in full swing, the weather is nice, and everyone's having a good time. But the start of the school year isn't that far away, and if you don't have a function dye table up and running, you're doing something wrong...
Materials & Tools
Wood Requirements
Plywood: (x1) 4' x 8' sheet, 1/2" thick
Table Support: * (x2) 2x4, 8' long (3 1/2" wide)
(x5) 2x4, 45" long
Legs: (x4) 4x4, 39 1/2" long
Leg Support:
(x4) 2x4, 5" long
(x4) 2x4, 3 1/2" long
(x2) 2x4, 38" long
Screws (All 3" Wood Screws)
Frame (wood 2+4): x20 (two per connection)
Frame + Top (wood 1+2+4): x8
Leg Support (wood 2+4+5+6): x12 (three per corner)
Leg Support (wood 3+7): x8 (two per connection)
Total 3" wood screws needed: 48 screws
Tools: Tape Measure, Cordless drill, Saw, and Level.
The Cut List
Label your pieces with a pencil after cutting:
* [Piece 1] x1 | 4’ x 8’ Plywood (Table Top)
* [Piece 2] x2 | 2x4, 8’ long / 96" (Outer Long Frame)
* [Piece 3] x4 | 4x4, 39 1/2" long (Table Legs)
* [Piece 4] x5 | 2x4, 45" long (Inner Cross Supports)
* [Piece 5] x4 | 2x4, 5" long (Corner Leg Blocks A)
* [Piece 6] x4 | 2x4, 3 1/2" long (Corner Leg Blocks B)
* [Piece 7] x2 | 2x4, 38" long (Lower Leg Stretchers)
Step 1: BUILD THE OUTER FRAME
1. Lay the two Piece 2 (8’ boards) parallel on a flat floor.
2. Place two Piece 4 (45" boards) on the absolute far ends to cap off the rectangle.
3. Pre-drill holes and drive two 3" screws through the face of Piece 2 straight into the ends of Piece 4 at all four corners.
Step 2: INSTALL THE CENTER JOISTS
1. Take the remaining three Piece 4 (45" boards).
2. Space them evenly inside your rectangular frame (roughly every 24 inches across the 8’ span).
3. Secure them from the outside of the frame using two 3" screws on each side.
Step 3: PREP THE CORNER LEG POCKETS
1. Look at the interior corners of your frame.
2. Screw one Piece 5 (5") block and one Piece 6 (3 1/2") block flat against the frame in each corner.
3. Use 3 screws per corner to anchor them. This creates a perfect 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" pocket for the legs.
Step 4: ATTACH LEGS & LOWER SUPPORTS
1. Slide the four Piece 3 (39 1/2") 4x4 legs into the corner pockets.
2. Screw through the frame and corner blocks directly into the legs to lock them.
3. Flip the table on its side. Measure 18" up from the bottom of the legs.
4. Fit the Piece 7 (38") boards between the short-side legs and secure them with two screws on each side to prevent wobbling.
**NOTE** If you want your legs to be detachable, do not screw them in.
Step 5: SECURE THE PLYWOOD TOP
1. Flip the table so it stands upright on its legs.
2. Set the Piece 1 (4’x8’) plywood sheet perfectly flush on top of the frame.
3. Secure the top using 8 evenly spaced screws around the perimeter, drilling down into the frame below. Sink screw heads slightly below the surface.
FINISHING TOUCHES
* SANDING: Smooth out the edges of the plywood to prevent splinters.
* SEALING: Apply 2-3 coats of clear polyurethane or outdoor paint. Unsealed 1/2" plywood will warp from beer spills and outdoor humidity.
* THE CENTER LINE: Draw a line perfectly splitting the table into two 4’x4’ halves.
Final Table Height: Exactly 40" (Regulation standard for the perfect bounce).
